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SETTING FOR ADVANCED COMPETITORS

FOCUSING SKILL AND CREATIVITY
IN HIGH-PRESSURE ENVIRONMENTS

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CLINIC DETAILS

Thursday July 26 - Friday July 27
8am - 5pm
Instructed by Dustin Curtis
Maximum 8 registrants
$400

PREREQUISITES

-strong understanding of commercial setting fundamentals
-current employment in a commercial facility
-some experience setting, competing, or coaching at a local level
-interest in setting for local provincial, regional, or national bouldering events

GEAR REQUIREMENTS

-impact driver
-wrenches/ratchets
-all impact/drill bits
-climbing shoes

Up The Bloc cannot provide ladders for all participants. If you can supply your own ladder, please let us know!

CLINIC DESCRIPTION

This clinic is designed to enhance the quality of Ontario's pool of competition routesetters, and to give registrants the tools they need to be an effective part of a provincial, regional, or national routesetting team.

The clinic will culminate in setting an IFSC qualifier round for the International Mock Competition held on Saturday morning, designed for members of Canada's National Youth and Open Bouldering Teams.

Three underlying themes will guide the content of the clinic:

1. Setting Within the Bigger Picture
Working on high-level events requires setters understand the perspectives of multiple parties, including the athletes, the host gym, the officials, and the audience. Acknowledging the needs of these stakeholders and finding common ground is critical for executing a successful competition. 

2. Leading and Following On Command
Switching between "Leader" and "Follower" is necessary when working with an unfamiliar crew. Whether it's tearing down your favourite boulder at the request of the Chief, washing holds without being asked, or offering support and creativity to a disheartened teammate, the best setters understand the emotion dynamic of their team and don't let it disrupt the work environment.

3. The Right Kind of Hard
Average setters understand that competition boulders need to achieve the right degree of difficulty to separate a field. Great setters aim not just for the right degree of difficulty, but the right STYLE of difficulty. Especially when qualifying athletes for an event or team, each sequence needs to compel the desired response from competitors.

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  1. THURSDAY

Discussion - Skills for Setting Efficiently/Coping with Competitive Restraints

Setting/Forerunning - Adapting to Changing Constraints on Deadline

Reflection - Observing Climbers on the Problems (optional)

 

FRIDAY

Discussion - Setting for Your Audience

Setting/Forerunning - Setting for the International Mock Competition

Final Touches - Arranging the Field of Play for an IFSC Format

SATURDAY (optional)

7:00am  - ISO Opens

7:45am - ISO Closes

8:00am - Climbing Starts

10:00am - Expected End Time

 

The clinic will pause for an hour lunch break each day. Fridge space is limited at Up The Bloc. Food within walking distance includes Fresh Co, A&W, Popeye's, Tim Horton's, McDonald's, Subway, and more.

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ABOUT DUSTIN CURTIS

Dustin is the Head Routesetter for Up The Bloc and Joe Rockhead's. His career spans 19 years at gyms across Canada, as well as time on the Canadian National Bouldering Team.

His setting resumé includes 2 Bouldering World Cups, 6 Canadian Bouldering Nationals, a Difficulty Nationals in Canada and the USA, and endless Tour De Blocs. 

Dustin's appreciation for good teachers has been informed by his time spent learning from names like Helt, Beard, Miall, Katiyo, Danielson, Cassidy, and Bishton, as well as progressing to Level 4 of the USAC RCCP. He is currently using that experience to inform his work with the CEC Routesetting Subcommittee, and to improve the private clinics that he's been teaching for the last 3 years.

 Photo: Shane Murdoch

Photo: Shane Murdoch

Spaces are limited. 

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